Hottboitravelz

Rocca Calascio

"Rocca Calascio è una delle rovine più maestose ed imponenti del mondo, un gigantesco nido d'aquila appollaiato sulla sommità di un monte, che domina con le sue antiche mura e torri le valli e le colline circostanti."

"Rocca Calascio is one of the most majestic and imposing ruins in the world, a gigantic eagle's nest set on the summit of a mountain, which dominates the surrounding valleys and hills with its ancient walls and towers."

Gabriele D'Annunzio on Rocca Calascio from "The Triumph of Death"

A two-hour drive east of Rome, deep into the Central Apennines, is the hilltop fortress Rocca Calascio. This is a pretty little bitty. Evidence of human settlements here date back to the Paleolithic era, between 25,000–10,000 BC, and you can feel it as you look out over the valleys below.

At 1,460 meters or 4,790 feet, Rocca Calascio is the highest elevation fortress in the Apennine mountain range. Who built Rocca Calascio is still debated, but most believe it was the Normans who used the fortress to oversee trade, as its location was strategically located on a major trade route between Rome and the Adriatic.

When walking to the castle, you run across a few ruined stone structures that are separate from the fortress. There is also a 16th century church, Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pieta, down a path just behind Calascio. I am not sure what the structures were for, but they are fun to wander through. Several renovations have occured over the years and much of the original structure was destroyed, so no one is sure of the total original size.

You cannot drive directly to the Castle, but you can get pretty close, 1/4 mi or 1/2 km. A short, relatively steep climb will get you there. Come early; there was no one there when I arrived around 10 a.m. These are uncurated ruins, so dont expect a tour or signage. Suprisingly, though, there was an art gallery in the central tower.

When looking into the castle, I came across an awesome little fable. It features kings, sieges and breast-milk cheese!

There was once a king at Rocca Calascio. He owned the most beautiful flock of sheep in the world. The milk they produced was turned into cheese that was the most coveted. However, his neighbor, the King of Crowns, was envious and declared war on him. The King of Rocca Calascio resisted a long siege until there was nothing left to eat.

It was at that moment the king gathered all the people of La Rocca and asked the women to “express their milk,” which was turned into twelve large rounds of cheese. He then rolled the cheese into the valleys below and the people rejoiced. The King of Crowns, seeing that Calascio still had cheese to spare after the long siege, left with his head bowed.

Here is the link if you wanna check that daddy out!

The place I stayed when checking out the region was exceptional. The medieval hilltop village Santo Stefano di Sessanio was once nearly abandoned before being mostly bought up by an entrepreneur looking to restore the town and turn it into a hotel. The result is stunning; rather than modernizing, the developer studied the history of the area and returned the town to its former glory. I have footage of this place in my Rocca Calascio video, but also check out their webpage that goes into greater detail. It is really a once in a lifetime experience.

Speaking of Santo Stafano, I have to mention a little vegetarian restaurant called L'Elisir del Poeta. It is honestly one of the best meals I have ever had. It has a set menu and is run by a husband (who hosts and serves) and wife (who cooks). That is it, just the two of them. He will tell you little stories about what you are eating and where the ingredients are sourced. A real joy.

Quick shoutout to the best beer I have had in Italy: ALMOND 22. They had bottles of this at the bar in Santo Stefano and it slaps. They have a taproom outside of Pescara. check it!

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